FASHION GLOSSARY

A

A-LINE - A dress or skirt that is narrower at the top and gradually flares out to a wider hemline resembling the letter A.

ACRYLIC - A synthetic fabric that is soft and wool-like. Acrylic is usually found in winter garments such as sweaters and dresses.

ARGYLE - A diamond shaped plaid pattern on a fabric.

APPLIQUÉ - Fabric that has been cut and applied to another fabric or garment in order to decorate the material.

ASYMMETRIC - A dress, top, or sweater with one shoulder strap or sleeve. The other shoulder is bare. Hemlines are often diagonal.

ATELIER - The French word for a design studio. A fashion designer’s workshop.

B

BABYDOLL - A top or dress with an empire waist (directly under the bust) and an A-line bodice.

BANDEAU - A band shaped strapless covering for the bust.

BATWING - Called a dolman sleeve. This style is cut very large at the armhole and extends almost to the waist and then tapers at the wrist.

BELL SLEEVE - A long or three quarter length sleeve that flares out at the hem.

BIAS - The diagonal direction of a fabric. This direction is best for a body hugging drape and has a natural stretch to it.

BLAZER - A long sleeved sports jacket with lapels.

BOATNECK - A narrow neckline that is open shoulder to shoulder.

BODICE - The upper part of a dress or top.

BOOT CUT - A pant or jean style that is tapered to the knee and very subtly flares out to accommodate a boot to be worn under the pant.

BOUCLÉ - A knitted or woven fabric with a looped or knotted texture.

BRAND - The name of a clothing line that represents a certain image or lifestyle.

BUSTIER - A garment similar to a corset that is close-fitting, usually strapless, and may be made from highly ornamental fabric.

BUSTLE - A bow or gathering of material at the back of a woman’s skirt below the waist.

C

CABLE KNIT - A knit in a raised loop stripe that resembles a twisted cable, used in knitted sweaters.

CAMISOLE - A top or dress with spaghetti straps that can be worn alone or as a layering piece. Also called a cami.

CAPRI PANTS - Calf length women’s pants.

CAP SLEEVE - A very short sleeve that extends to just over the shoulder to give that touch of sexy femininity.

CARDIGAN - A usually collarless sweater or jacket that opens down the front.

CASHMERE - A fine, soft downy wool. A luxury fiber because it’s one of the rarest and most expensive fabrics.

CHIFFON - A light, sheer fabric typically made of nylon, silk, or rayon.

CIRCLE SKIRT - A skirt that is designed by cutting a circle out a piece of fabric, creating volume.

COLD SHOULDER - A top with cut out shoulders.

COLLECTION - A group of designs organized by season.

COLOR BLOCKING - Strategically placed contrasting colors paired together on a garment.

CONSTRUCTION - The process of making a garment.

CORDUROY - A pile fabric with vertical ridges, usually made of cotton.

CORSET - A tight fitting top, often reinforced by stays, worn to support and shape the waistline and bust.

COWL NECK - A neckline on a woman’s blouse or sweater that hangs in draped folds.

CROCHET - An open knit in which yarn is looped into a patterned fabric.

CROQUIS - The French word for a fashion sketch. A quick drawing of a fashion design idea in a sketch pad.

CROSS GRAIN - The horizontal grain line of a fabric.

CUTTER - A person who cuts out a clothing pattern in fabric to be sewn.

CUTTING TABLE - A special long table usually 60” wide used to lay out fabric and cut out patterns in a design studio.

D

DARTS - Seams in a garment used to help shape around a bust or hip area for a better fit on the body.

DENIM - A sturdy cotton twill fabric, typically blue, used for jeans, overalls, and other clothing.

DOLMAN SLEEVE - Also called batwing. This style is cut very large at the armhole and extends almost to the waist and then tapers at the wrist.

DOT PAPER - White dotted grid paper by the roll used to create paper patterns in clothing design.

DOUBLE-BREASTED - Having one half of the front overlapping the other, usually with a double row of buttons and a single row of buttonholes.

DRAPING - The art of creating a clothing design on a three dimensional dress form using muslin.

DRESS FORM - A stuffed mannequin body used by a designer to drape fabric onto when creating a piece of clothing.

E

EMBELLISHED - Ornamentation of fabric by using a wide variety of decorative pieces such as sequins, beads or decorative pieces.

EMBROIDERY - Ornamentation of a fabric by using any wide variety of decorative hand or machine stitches in the same or contrasting color with needlework.

EMPIRE WAIST - Waist begins just below the bust which gives dresses and tops a flattering fit.

EYELET - A type of embroidery with small holes that are cut in the fabric.

F

FABRIC CONTENT - The kinds of fibers represented in a particular garment.

FABRIC SHEARS - Special scissors used only to cut fabric. A designer has ‘paper’ scissors and ‘fabric’ scissors to keep the scissors sharp for cutting delicate fabric.

FABRIC WEIGHTS - Small heavy iron weights with handles used by cutters to keep a paper pattern in place when cutting out garment in fabric.

FISHTAIL - A style of skirt or blouse that is shorter in the front than the back.

FITTING - The process of adjusting the fit or shape of a garment on a live model.

FLAT SKETCH - A drawing of a garment laid out flat with technical details.

FLOUNCE HEM - A strip of decorative fabric attached to one edge to create a wide ruffle.

FRENCH CURVE - A curved ruler use to create a perfectly shaped curve in patternmaking, e.g. the curve of an armhole on a paper pattern.

FUNNEL NECK - A neckline that is high and wide. A funnel neckline is attached to the body of the garment and not sewn to the neckline.

G

GARMENT - Another word for a piece of clothing.

GARMENT RACK - A closet on wheels that stores clothing on hangers. Used by a designer to transport their clothing designs.

GARMENT WASHED - Apparel that has already been washed. The garment is softer and has a worn-in look.

GEORGETTE - A crinkled, sheer fabric that has a lightweight, flowing look.

GINGHAM - A medium or lightweight, plaid or checked fabric using more than two colors with a plain weave made of cotton.

GRADING - The process of creating different sizes in a pattern.

GROSGRAIN - A strong, tightly woven corded trim that has narrow, horizontal rib.

GUSSET - A diamond-shaped or triangular insert in a seam (underarm of a sleeve or crotch of pants) to provide expansion or more comfort.

H

HALTER - A dress or top that is tied around the neck, exposing the back and shoulders. Also called halter neck.

HANDKERCHIEF HEM - The hem of a skirt or blouse that is gently jagged to form flowing points that resemble a scarf.

HAUTE COUTURE - French for high fashion. Used to describe a higher end collection of clothing with dressmaker details in expensive fabrics.

HENLEY - A collarless top with a closure that stops midway down the top.

HERRINGBONE - A broken twill weave that is sewn in opposite directions to form a zigzag pattern.

HIGH LOW HEM - A garment with an uneven hemline varying from long to short.

HOOK AND EYE CLOSURE - Fastening system on garments with a small hook that is inserted into an eye loop.

HOUNDS TOOTH - A small broken check pattern woven into a fabric.

I

INDUSTRIAL STEAM IRON - A special industrial iron used to press fabric and clothing at high temperatures.

INTERN - A fashion assistant to a designer who helps run errands and assists in everyday design studio tasks.

J

JACQUARD - A fabric with an intricately woven pattern.

JERSEY - A stretchy fine knitted fabric used in t-shirts, sportswear, and figure hugging clothes. This fabric is great for draping.

JUMPSUIT - A garment that incorporates a top and bottom in one piece.

K

KEYHOLE NECKLINE - A teardrop or round shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.

KIMONO SLEEVE - Cut as part of the bodice, a kimono sleeve has a wide, sloping shape.

L

LEGGING - Tight form fitting pants. Sometimes referred to as tights.

LENGTH GRAIN - The vertical grain line of a fabric that runs along the selvage edge.

LINEN - A natural fiber cloth woven from flax.

LINESHEET - The layout of a collection with fabrics, garment design, and pricing for a buyer.

LOOKS - A series of outfits created by a designer to showcase a fashion collection. Looks are accessorized from head to toe.

LYCRA® - Lycra® is a trademark name for spandex and is often added to other fabrications to retain stretch.

M

MAXI - A skirt or dress with a long full length, usually to the ankles.

MESH - A knit, woven, or knotted fabric of net-like open texture. Mesh is lightweight and breathable.

METALLIC - A yarn or fiber made partially or entirely of metal and having a metallic appearance.

MINI SKIRT - A skirt with a hemline well above the knees.

MINI DRESS - A dress with a hemline well above the knees.

MITERED - A striped pattern sewn into a "V" design that slenderizes and flatters your figure.

MODEL - A person who wears a designer’s garment in a fashion show.

MOOD BOARD - A collage of a designer’s inspiration using magazine cutouts, fabric swatches, colors and other sources of inspiration.

MUSE - A source of inspiration for a designer.

MUSLIN - A natural colored, light-weight cotton fabric used for draping a design on a dress form.

MUST-HAVE - A fashion item you just can’t live without!

N

NATURAL WAIST - A seam or waistband that secures or falls at the natural curve of the body.

NAP - The raised, fuzzy surface on certain kinds of cloth, such as velvet or moleskin. This texture is directional and color will look different from different angles. 

NYLON - A synthetic fiber known for its strength and stain resilience.

O

ORGANZA - A very thin, but stiff plain woven silk fabric.

ORGANDY - A very thin, but stiff plain woven cotton fabric.

OVERSIZED - Enlarged garments that alter the natural shape of the wearer.

OXFORD  - A soft, basket weave cotton shirting fabric that has a silk-like luster finish often used for shirtings.

P

PAISLEY - A swirled pattern curved with teardrop shapes.

PATTERN - The paper template used to create a garment.

PATTERN MAKING - The art of creating a paper pattern construction of a clothing design.

PEASANT - A romantic style top or dress commonly distinguished by a low neckline, ruffles, or free flowing material.

PENCIL SKIRT - A knee length skirt that is cut in a straight line from the hips and tapers to the hem.

PEPLUM - A short full flounce or an extension of a garment below the waist, covering the hips.

PINS - Short, straight piece of wire with a pointed end used to fasten pieces of cloth or paper together

PIPING - A fabric trim stitched along the seams or edges of a garment.

PLACKET - An opening or slit in a blouse, skirt, or dress usually covering fastenings that facilitates putting it on or taking it off.

PLEAT - A type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place.

POINTELLE - A stitch that creates a tiny, open-worked pattern that adds a lightweight, delicate texture to clothing.

POPLIN - A heavyweight and durable tightly woven plain-weave fabric that has fine, crisscrossing ribs.

Q

QUALITY CONTROL - The testing, checking and inspecting of a garment at the factory after assembly before it is shipped to stores.

QUILTED - A heavier weight material made with a layer of batting in between two layers of fabric that is then stitched in a uniform pattern.

R

RACERBACK - A top where the back is cut away in a T-shape to reveal the shoulder blades.

READY-TO-WEAR - A term used to describe fashion that is ‘off the rack’ and ready to wear.

RIBBING - A knitting method where small rows are finely knitted together to form a texture.

ROMPER - A loose one-piece garment combining a shirt and a short.

RUCHED - A sewing technique where fabric is gathered in a repeating pattern creating a ripple appearance.

RUFFLE - An ornamental strip of fabric tightly gathered or pleated on one edge and applied to a garment.

RUNWAY- The platform used in a fashion show to exhibit a designer’s collection on models to the public.

S

SAMPLE - The ‘practice’ garment a designer uses to see her design on a figure.

SAMPLE MAKER - A person who sews a garment; also known as a seamstress.

SATEEN - A durable, lustrous fabric usually made of mercerized cotton.

SATIN - A smooth, silky fabric with a shiny surface, but with a matte back; often made in silk or acetate.

SCOOP NECK - A low, U-shaped or round neckline.

SEAM RIPPER - A small pointed devise used by a seamstress to remove a stitch from fabric

SELVAGE - The finished edge of a fabric that runs along the length grain.

SHAWL COLLAR - A one-piece collar turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front.

SHEER - A fabric that is transparently thin.

SHIFT DRESS - A loose fitting dress with no defined waistline.

SHIRTDRESS - A dress that resembles a lengthened shirt, commonly worn with a belt.

SHOWROOM - A place where a designer showcases a collection to be viewed by store buyers.

SILK - A soft, lustrous fiber made from the cocoon of a silkworm.

SKINNY LEG - A form-fitting slim fit jean or pant with snug fit through the legs and a small tapered leg opening.

SMOCKING - An embroidery technique that gathers a section of the material into tight pleats, holding them together with parallel stitches so that it can stretch.

SPAGHETTI STRAPS - A very thin shoulder strap on a woman’s garment.

STUFFED ARM - A muslin-stuffed arm attached to a dress form that‘s used in draping to fit a sleeve on a garment.

STYLE - To’ style’ is a term used to accessorize or put together a designer’s look for either a runway show or photo shoot.

SURPLICE - A garment in which the two halves of the front cross diagonally, forming a V-neck wrap front.

T

TAG PAPER - Heavy stock manila paper by the roll used to create a lasting pattern template of each pattern piece in a clothing design.

TANK TOP - A short, sleeveless top.

TAPE MEASURE - A 60” long narrow tape used by patternmakers and designers to measure fabric and fit a garment on a figure.

THIMBLE - A small metal cap that fits on a finger tip to prevent being poked by a needle during sewing.

TIE DYE - A pattern created by dyeing the fabric after knotting it to create an irregular pattern.

TIERS - Layers of fabric placed one above the other.

TRACING WHEEL - A patternmaker’s tool used to transfer markings between patterns and fabric, such as darts, buttonholes, or style lines.

TRUMPET SLEEVE - A top with a sleeve falling straight to the elbow, where it flares in the shape of a trumpet.

TULLE - A very fine mesh like net fabric commonly used in eveningwear and bridal gowns.

TUNIC - A woman´s top that is either loose or tight fitting, and extends to the hips or below.

TURTLE NECK - A garment with a close fitting, round, and high collar that folds over and covers the neck.

TWEED - A soft, thick fabric woven from contrasting woolen yarns.

U

ULTRASUEDE - An imitation suede fabric manufactured with tiny polyester fibers embedded in its soft lush surface.

UNIFORM - A distinctive outfit worn by the same group of people. Also refers to items that are the same and consistent in design.

UNISEX - A term used to describe a garment that is for both men and women.

V

VELVET - A fabric of closely woven thick short pile fabric that is soft to the touch. Velvet fabric has a nap and must be cut in the same direction.

V-NECK - A neckline with a V shaped front.

W

WARP - The lengthwise yarns that run vertically in a woven fabric.

WEDGE - A shoe with a heel that runs from the back of the shoe to the middle or front. The heel has a triangular or wedge shape.

WEFT - The crosswise yarns that run horizontally in a woven fabric.

WOVEN - Refers to fabric that is not knitted. A cloth that is weaved by interlacing the weft and warp yarns with each other.

Y

YARD - Fabric is measured by the ‘yard’ which is also 36” in length. The same as a ‘yard stick.’

YIELD - The number of yards of fabric needed to produce a given garment.